How To Change A Hayward H100 Pool Heater Igniter

Hayward H100ID Gas Valve and Control Module Troubleshooting

• Thread starter Davids23
• Start date Jul eleven, 2015

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• #one

Howdy - PoolGuyNJ helped on a similar thread, seems to know these things inside and out.

I accept studied how these heaters work (all of the safety interlocks and switches), but I need a better level of agreement on how to determine if I have a bad gas valve or a bad control module.

Unit was purchased used, because the exchanges internal flow diverter spring was loose and rattling (common on these). I resolved that, cleaned everything, learned the schematic and operation very well, had a licensed plumber run the gas line, and we've been enjoying information technology for days. A few days ago, it showed the behavior identical to another thread. "Hayward H100ID Das Heater - Cycles One time, Then No Heat" but now I am not getting ignition fifty-fifty when the command lath sees 120v and the igniter is firing.

All of the interlocks/limit switches, etc ultimately do only two things:
#1 if at to the lowest degree catamenia conditions/thermostat/panel interlock met, supply 120v to the fan.. and
#2 if all conditions met, supply 120v to the control board until the thermostat opens.
Control lath has just 5 connections; ground, neutral, switched line (equally in #ii above) and majestic out to the gas valve, and the igniter cable. Gas valve rated at 120v, majestic line should be supplying 120v or close.

Hither is what I am seeing:
Plug unit in. Gas line valve is open up, pump running, thermostat on high, fan engages, afterward a few seconds, you tin can hear the igniter sparking. NO THUNK from a gas valve opening. Igniter continues to fire several seconds and stops. Fan keeps running, no rut felt at exhaust. Afterwards awhile, the igniter fires once again. Control board is continually supplied with 120v... I'll echo, I am NOT losing 120v to the control lath.

I am guessing the control board is not supplying 120v to the gas valve (control board bad) or gas valve bad. I have Non been able to measure out anything over a volt or 2 on the purple line, so my next step is to apply 120v to the gas valve. Don't worry, I'll shut off the gas at the heater and even in the basement at the home's manifold. I know what I'yard doing.

I do wish I understood the gas valvue unit itself better. It gets neutral, the purple line already mentione, but then has some type of jumper cake. Can anyone draw in lower detail how the gas valve ITSELF isworking? Instance, If I knew that the gas valve is "impaired" i.east., it either gets 120v or information technology doesn't; information technology either opens or it doesn't, so if I have to troubleshoot the command lath, I know that it is "but" switching 120v on or off. What I cannot figure out, is whether there is any feedback signal back to the control board (non unless information technology uses that same royal line/feedback is wrong voltage drib).

Does anyone know these things well enough to speculate?

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• #ii

Yes the gas valve is dumb. Information technology either become voltage to open up, or information technology doesn't. As simple as that. You should be able to put your meter on the wires to the gas valve or at the command module to come across if it is supplying the correct voltage to open the gas valve.

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• #3

if the control board inside the unit looks similar this one...

Then cheque the pins coming thru the board for bad solder connections. The pins can be seen in this image...

I accept had to re-solder several of these over the years. Sometimes it takes a magnifying lens to come across the cracks.

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• #4

Hi - PoolGuyNJ helped on a similar thread, seems to know these things inside and out.

I have studied how these heaters piece of work (all of the safety interlocks and switches), but I demand a ameliorate level of understanding on how to determine if I have a bad gas valve or a bad control module.

Unit of measurement was purchased used, because the exchanges internal flow diverter leap was loose and rattling (common on these). I resolved that, cleaned everything, learned the schematic and functioning very well, had a licensed plumber run the gas line, and we've been enjoying it for days. A few days agone, it showed the beliefs identical to another thread. "Hayward H100ID Das Heater - Cycles In one case, Then No Heat" just now I am not getting ignition even when the control board sees 120v and the igniter is firing.

All of the interlocks/limit switches, etc ultimately practice only two things:
#1 if at least flow conditions/thermostat/panel interlock met, supply 120v to the fan.. and
#2 if all conditions met, supply 120v to the command board until the thermostat opens.
Command board has only five connections; ground, neutral, switched line (as in #two above) and purple out to the gas valve, and the igniter cable. Gas valve rated at 120v, majestic line should exist supplying 120v or close.

Here is what I am seeing:
Plug unit in. Gas line valve is open up, pump running, thermostat on loftier, fan engages, later on a few seconds, you lot can hear the igniter sparking. NO THUNK from a gas valve opening. Igniter continues to fire several seconds and stops. Fan keeps running, no oestrus felt at exhaust. Later awhile, the igniter fires again. Control board is continually supplied with 120v... I'll repeat, I am NOT losing 120v to the control board.

I am guessing the control board is not supplying 120v to the gas valve (control lath bad) or gas valve bad. I accept Non been able to mensurate anything over a volt or ii on the purple line, and then my next step is to utilize 120v to the gas valve. Don't worry, I'll shut off the gas at the heater and even in the basement at the home's manifold. I know what I'k doing.

I exercise wish I understood the gas valvue unit itself better. It gets neutral, the regal line already mentione, merely and so has some type of jumper block. Tin anyone depict in lower detail how the gas valve ITSELF isworking? Example, If I knew that the gas valve is "dumb" i.e., it either gets 120v or it doesn't; information technology either opens or it doesn't, so if I have to troubleshoot the command lath, I know that it is "only" switching 120v on or off. What I cannot figure out, is whether in that location is whatsoever feedback bespeak back to the control board (non unless information technology uses that same majestic line/feedback is incorrect voltage drop).

Does anyone know these things well plenty to speculate?

I know this thread is quite quondam - but was wondering how yous made out? I have the aforementioned unit, a couple of years newer, so the control board is newer. But the same symptom. Everything looks like it is working equally it should. Fan spins, and then you hear the ignitor. But no ignition. I will admit that I am a little handy, just I volition demand the kind of help that you lot would give to a newbie - I will demand specific instructions. I know it is possible to rule out some components by bypassing certain components, only if anyone tin help, offering suggestions with specific instructions, that would exist very much appreciated. I see things like "measuring on a line" - but exactly what should I exercise, what to I apply my meter to, etc.

Thank you!

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